Ocala, Florida
Sell your cards, coins & collectibles
One card or a closet full of boxes. Tell me what you have and I'll tell you what it's worth — and what I'd pay for it.
I'm a real buyer, not a middleman
Four of the 160+ cards I have listed right now. Everything I buy gets scanned, graded, priced and photographed — which is exactly how I know what yours is worth. See the shop →
What I pay
Most buyers won't tell you this until you're standing in front of them. Here it is up front.
| What you're selling | I pay | Why that number |
|---|---|---|
| Graded slabsPSA, BGS, CGC, AGS | 60–70% | Exact sold comps, sells quickly, no sorting on my end. |
| Sealed product | 65–75% | Known market, no labor, moves fast. |
| Singles we price together | 55–60% | I look each one up with you and agree on the comp. |
| Unsorted boxes & bulk | Per card | Rates below. Honest answer: it's cents, and here's why. |
Percentages are of recent sold prices — what the card actually closed at, not what someone is asking.
Bulk rates, per card
For the unsorted part of a collection — the binders and shoeboxes nobody has been through.
- Modern commons & uncommons1–2¢
- Reverse holos3–5¢
- Holo rares10–25¢
- ex / V / VMAX / full art50¢–$1.50
- Vintage commons (pre-2000)10–25¢
- Vintage holosPriced individually
Why bulk is worth cents, honestly.
A recent 158-card lot I went through carried $314 in asking prices and $15.24 in actual market value — about a dime a card. That gap is the whole reason bulk is priced the way it is, everywhere, by everyone.
On top of that: every card has to be scanned, sorted, photographed and listed, and the marketplace takes about 13.5% of whatever finally sells. Anyone quoting you a big number per card for unsorted bulk either hasn't done the math or isn't planning to pay it.
How it works
Four steps, no obligation at any point.
- 1
Tell me what you have
A rough description is enough to start — a single card, a box, or a whole collection. Photos help but aren't required.
- 2
I price it and show my work
Every offer comes with the comps behind it. You'll see what the cards actually sold for, not just a number I made up.
- 3
Meet locally or ship it
I'm in Ocala. For anything sizeable I'd rather do it in person. Further out, I'll walk you through shipping it safely.
- 4
Get paid
Payment goes out once I've confirmed what arrived matches what was described. For local deals we settle up in person when we meet.
Every offer is based on real evidence — recent sold comps, grading, and condition — never a guess. I'll always tell you why I landed on a number.
Before you write in
Being straight about this saves us both a drive.
I'm buying
- Pokémon, sports, and other TCGs
- Vintage, especially pre-2000
- Graded slabs and sealed product
- Whole collections, sorted or not
- Coins and other collectibles alongside cards
I'll probably pass
- Heavily played or damaged commons
- Reprints and repacks sold as vintage
- Collections already priced card by card — the spread's gone
- Anything I can't verify is authentic
If I pass, I'll tell you why, and where you'd do better. Sometimes that's “keep them.”